These Culinary Thymes

I know you have had that burning desire to ask one simple question, one that would mystify even the highest of IQ’s.  That one question would be…”what’s a spork?”  I know you have seen this odd utencil, usually at a convienience store, between the self serve condiment stand and the slushy machine.  An odd creation of plastic, it was designed to make our daily “meal on the go” less complicated.  In your mind you ask, “do I need a fork, or spoon to eat that?”  I imagine some guy asked himself that very same question and boom, the birth of the “spork.”  I, being a product of the on the go generation have actually used them on several occassions.  It served its purpose, but to me was actually quite annoying.  My rule of thumb…if it is soup or cereal…pick the spoon.  The choice is rather simple.  I do however want to get your interest piqued, but don’t want to write a whole article on such a silly thing like that.  I do however want to discuss other really cool inventions that might be used by the “modern day chef.”  These “homme culinaire’s” or culinary men (and women) if you will are a force to be reckened with.  We as a food oriented society won’t be satisfied with the every day tools sold in the super market.  We have even turned away from the average restaurant supply company, and turned to more scientific applications and tools.  If you remember your sauces 101 class from culinary school, a demi glace’ is the reduction of espagnole sauce and veal stock.  The resultant sauce is a very small amount of concentrated flavor with a unique texture.  The texture comes from as we all know the collegen, or bone marrow from the veal stock.  It is extracted through the process of stock making which takes hours.  Then, when you reduce that liquid further you get this wonderful liquid.  The same holds true for anything else…time and patience and you have perfection.  In getting back to my point, what would you do to deliver these labors of love and art in a different vehicle.  Why not use a little science.  If you have ever seen a bio or d.n.a. testing lab you might come across this funny little “turkey baister.”  Actually is called a pipette, and it can be a great little tool to have.  It can be used to deliver controlled “droplettes” to exact locations on the plate.  It can also be used as a flavor injector at the table.  Chef James George Sarkar, a graduate of the famed NY Restaurant school (my almamater) uses them at his restaurant “Venue.”  Venue is in Hoboken NJ, and from what I have heard it is a must on your dining list. 

The way they work is simple…you take the pipette, place the tip under your tongue and “shoot” the contents into your mouth.  The result is amazing.  Other tools of the trade are flavor injectors that look like hypodermic needles.  These are more redily available and can be found in cooking supply stores.  The idea…take a liquid and shoot up the turkey or beast of choice.  I have used this to inject butter into a TG turkey, and it was a great success.  Any liquid will do.  A theory I am in the process of working on is this. Combine the liquid with  gelatin, use the injector to make little droplettes on a parchment lined half sheet pan that has been frozen.  If my idea works I will have little Gelee’s that will be “button’s of flavor.”  They will have the texture of panna cotta, but can be applied to almost everything.  All in all, there are many “tools” you get you hands on to achieve many unique results.  It takes just a little creativity, patience and a willingness to think “outside the box.”

Today’s recipe is for a “Deconstructed” Surf & Turf.  The idea is to take what you know, rip it apart and put it back together.  It is a little “unorthodox” to some, but is riding the wave of the future.  So get out your boogie board and hang ten.

4 good sized short ribs, bone-in.

1 cup mire poix (carrot, onion, clelery) 

4 cups chicken or beef broth (canned is ok)

1/2 cup good red wine

2 or 3 T. flour

1/2 t. tomato paste

1 cup home made creamy clam chowder or lobster bisque, pureed in blender and strained well (keep liquid, discard solids)

Heat a roasting pan or  fairly large oven safe pot  (one with a cover) on the stove top.  Add a little oil, and brown the seasoned shortribs on all sides really well.  Remove from pot, add vegetable and brown them.  Add tomato paste and cook several more minutes.  Add flour and start to cook for the roux.  Deglaze with the wine, and cook til almost dry.  Add the ribs back in, add stock and cover.  Place in a 350 oven for one hour, lower to 250 and cook until meat in almost falling off bone.  Remove from pot, set aside and strain off liquid.  Reserve for sauce, and excess for later use. 

To serve.  Fill each pipette with hot seafood broth.  Place ribs, one on each plate in center, pour  just a little of the jus from braising over each rib, and a little “painted” on plate.  Lay the pipette onto the plate, resting the tip “upward” on top of each rib.  Instruct your guests to take a bite of the rib, then “wash it down” with the ”soup.” 

That’s all I have for today.  Join me next time as we journey deeper into the world of extreme cuisine.  Remember, it’s ok to play with your food.